BY ROGER WATSON
To describe anywhere as a ‘hidden gem’ is becoming a cliché, in the same vein as describing someone as a ‘national treasure’. There are so many hidden gems and national treasures now that we struggle to find the words to describe those places and people who are neither.
But, in the case of Saltmarshe Hall, both ‘hidden’ and ‘gem’ apply in equal measure. This former stately home turned hotel is not somewhere you would visit or even stumble across unless you were intending to. The hall is hidden to the extent that it is invisible, even on the long approach road over the flat reclaimed land of the East Riding of Yorkshire.
Strategically placed thickets of trees obscure your view. It is, literally, not until you turn into the driveway that you see Saltmarshe Hall coming into view. Without even entering, its beauty is apparent. While the hall originally dates to Norman times, the present building is late Georgian. It is not imposing. Rather, it is inviting and a pillared portico covers some broad stone steps leading to the front door.
Saltmarshe Hall lies on the banks of the Ouse, a tributary of the Humber Estuary. The Ouse is navigable up to Goole, which is not far away, and the occasional barge idles past making its journey to or from the Humber Estuary. The Ouse is tidal and spring tides are kept at bay by a dyke. These are a common feature of both the Ouse and the Humber Estuary with much of the land being below sea level.
Once inside the building, the entrance hall extends the welcoming feel with its large fireplace and an intriguing relief above it. We visited at Christmas and one of several Christmas trees – real ones – was in the hall, delicately decorated and emitting the wonderful aroma of pine.
A warm welcome awaits at the reception where one of the first things you notice is a rack of wellington boots and a booklet of ‘Wellie walks’ in and around the grounds. This sums up the spirit of the hall; you are there to enjoy yourself and they are here to help. The grounds are worth exploring with a small, gated garden, an outdoor swimming pool and many interesting outhouses including The Gardener’s Cottage.
Beyond the grounds, there are walks along the dyke, one of which takes you into the hamlet of Saltmarshe itself. Dawn and dusk on the dyke provide brilliant views of the sunrise and sunset, respectively. The nearest town of any size is Howden with its ruined Abbey and interesting market square and back streets. Howden was also the site of the construction of the R100 – sister ship to the ill-fated R101 – and one of the designers was Nevil Shute Norway, better known as the novelist Nevil Shute. A house where he lodged is marked with a blue plaque.
Saltmarshe is famous for its afternoon teas. My wife had twice indulged before but I was new to this show-stopping extravaganza of savouries and cakes which, taken on our second day, precluded the possibility of dinner. Dinner, on our first night, was excellent. The wine list is extensive and expensive. The Full English Breakfast kept me awake on the second night, trembling with anticipation.
Pre-dinner drinks and after-dinner brandy (they have not one, but two XOs on the shelves) can be taken in the well-stocked library. There was no obvious theme to the library, and I got the impression that some second-hand collections had been integrated into the collection. But I found Engelbert’s Lives of The Saints which, as a Roman Catholic, I am ashamed to say does not adorn my own shelves.
A very welcome feature of the bar is a collection of moderately priced cigars including Montecristo and Romeo y Julieta. Sadly, it is many years since I indulged but the welcome aroma of cigar smoke wafted through the open window of our bedroom as someone stood out, under the portico, enjoying a puff.
My wife and I were there for a pre-Christmas getaway. The deal was very good at just over £500 for two nights. The place was far from busy and, for the two days we stayed, we were very well looked after. If you intend to visit Saltmarshe Hall – and I thoroughly recommend it – then I also recommend a good satnav.
Roger Watson is a Registered Nurse and Editor-in-Chief of Nurse Education in Practice.