BY ALLISON LEE
Coxwold is a picturesque village in North Yorkshire, not far from where I live, and I have visited it on numerous occasions. Although small—there are fewer than 300 inhabitants and around 100 dwellings—it has a lot to offer visitors. Many of the houses in the village still retain their garths: long strips of land behind each property. (A little bird tells me the Editor hid an old banger in one such garth as a boy, while boarding at nearby Ampleforth College, and used it to go and visit his girlfriends, and faraway public houses not frequented by teachers).
Coxwold is situated within the North York Moors National Park and is famous as the home of Laurence Sterne, author of Tristram Shandy. Attractions such as Shandy Hall (Sterne’s historic home), St Michael’s Church with its octagonal tower (built in 1450 on the site of an earlier church, where Sterne preached), and countryside walks are all to be enjoyed, with Byland Abbey a mere stone’s throw away.
In the summer, Coxwold hosts an open garden event. Last year was their 35th anniversary, when visitors were granted access to a dozen spectacular gardens. I visited for the first time, and it was truly amazing—an event I will most definitely return to. Locals opened their gardens and shared stories about their passion for creating beautiful spaces. Each garden had something different to offer. The route took us along the main street of Coxwold to explore the hidden gems of The Alms-houses, Dale Croft with its tombola (I didn’t win anything), and Clarence House selling Moonshine ice cream. Every garden was enchanting in its individuality and a testament to the enormous amount of work its owners put into creating a peaceful haven for wildlife and insects.
For me, Manor Farm stood out. It was stunning, not just because of its grandeur, but also because, after speaking with the owner, I learned it had only been cultivated for about 14 years. When the current owner, Mr Sutcliffe, moved in, the garden was just a field. The beauty I was exploring was down to his hard work and thoughtfulness. Mr Sutcliffe told me he started with the hedges, as these were necessary due to the wind—something that, unfortunately, must be endured if panoramic views are to be enjoyed. Once the hedges were planted, he created ‘rooms’ within the garden, and I have to say these are rooms that any gardener would envy. Each space had been carefully and thoughtfully planted, and the whole effect was a riot of colour and scent.
Shandy Hall dates back to around 1430 and has been continuously inhabited for almost 600 years by various families who have shaped and developed the gardens. In the early eighteenth century, the house became a parsonage, and in 1760 Laurence Sterne was appointed Perpetual Curate. Whilst living at Shandy Hall, Sterne wrote A Sentimental Journey. In 1967, the Laurence Sterne Trust was established to make Shandy Hall a public museum. Since then, the garden has been established as a wildlife haven, and an adjoining disused quarry was incorporated in the 1990s. Shandy Hall Gardens boasts more than 100 different roses and unusual perennials with distinctive smells and colours. Wildlife is abundant, with bees living in cavity walls, swallows nesting in stables, and bats roosting in buildings. I have never been anywhere before where a sign told visitors to beware of wild honey bees! It really is a joy to behold.
Rarely do I enjoy a day out without sampling the amenities, and Coxwold does not disappoint with the historic pub, The Fauconberg Arms. I have had the pleasure of visiting the village pub on numerous occasions, and whether we go in the summer months or when the rain is pouring, there is always a very warm welcome and delicious food on offer.
For more information, please visit the websites:
Shandy Hall – https://www.laurencesternetrust.org.uk/
Fauconberg Arms – https://www.fauconbergarms.com/
Allison Lee is a smallholder from North Yorkshire who has written for the Yorkshire Times and other publications. Her website can be accessed here.