BY ALLISON LEE
Lastingham is one of my favourite places to visit in the North York Moors National Park. Steeped in history and set amidst breathtaking scenery, this picturesque village sits on the southern fringe of the park and has welcomed visitors for centuries, drawn by its postcard-perfect charm and warm hospitality.
Two inviting options for accommodation in the village are Lastingham Grange and The Blacksmith’s Arms, with the latter situated directly opposite St Mary’s Church. Lastingham Grange began as a 17th-century farmhouse before being transformed in the early 1920s into the country house hotel it is today. Built around a courtyard and set within ten acres of gardens and fields, this family-run hotel offers a full menu and twelve bedrooms, making it an ideal base for exploring the moors and dales, abbeys and castles, and sandy beaches—all within easy reach. Just a short distance from the Grange, the road gives way to a bridle path across the moors, perfect for walkers.
The Blacksmith’s Arms is a beautiful 17th-century pub taken over in May 2021 by Ali Moran, a North Yorkshire native. Ali is often found in the kitchen, crafting a menu built on strong links with local farmers and game shooters. The pub has just three letting rooms, along with a cosy bar and four dining areas, including a snug, two dining rooms, and a private space for up to six guests. In the summer months, visitors can enjoy live music and an outdoor garden complete with a pizza oven.
Perhaps the most notable building in Lastingham is the historic St Mary’s Church. One need not be religious to appreciate the peace and tranquillity this beautiful church offers. While the first monastery church on the site was almost certainly wooden, a stone church was built there in 725. That monastery is believed to have been destroyed in 870, but in 1078, William the Conqueror granted permission for a new church to be built, and a group of Benedictine monks from Whitby established it. They stayed for ten years before moving to York, citing the area’s remoteness and lawlessness as reasons for their departure.
Beneath St Mary’s lies the Norman crypt, with walls three feet thick that extend under the entire footprint of the church above. Supported by four pillars believed to date from before the Norman Conquest, the crypt is thought to have remained unchanged since William the Conqueror’s time. As you descend the steps, a sense of calm envelops you along the central passage, which leads to a stone altar illuminated by a slender lancet window. The crypt is so tranquil today that it is hard to imagine cock-fighting being said to have taken place here in the 18th century—whether with or without the knowledge of the clergy and churchwarden.
Finally, Lastingham has its own village hall. Darley Memorial Hall, once the village school, now hosts a variety of community events, including coffee mornings, historical lectures, and stone-carving festivals. The hall is also available to hire for weddings and parties.
Allison Lee is a smallholder from North Yorkshire who has written for the Yorkshire Times and other publications. Her website can be accessed here.
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