BY JAMIE FOSTER
In the summer of 2014, with the rumble of dragons awakening in the form of Russia’s seizure of Crimea, Michael Pugh made an audacious decision. Despite the splendour of his life as an expat lawyer in Moscow, he chose to leave—not by plane or train, but by horse. The resulting memoir, Riding Through War and Peace, is a breathtaking odyssey that captures a fleeting, precious moment in history: the last gasp of a peaceful, interconnected Eastern Europe before it was warped under the dark forces of Putin’s imperialist reach. Pugh’s journey, which begins by riding west through a bucolic Russian landscape of wildflower meadows, past monasteries and historic battle sites, is like riding back in time, offering a sensory immersion in a world of vast horizons and ancient traditions.
His prose is wonderfully evocative, painting a vivid picture of a vast wilderness dotted with forgotten aristocratic estates, their histories whispering through overgrown gardens and crumbling facades. His adventures are punctuated by the loyal company of his horse, Dog Friday, and later the adventurous stallion Marlboro in Belarus, alongside a cast of unforgettable characters—from eccentric stable girls to generous guides—who offer both hospitality and a glimpse into a disappearing world.
There is a distinct and welcome change of pace when he finds himself enveloped in the fire, dancing, and song of the midsummer festival of Kupala, a pagan celebration that feels utterly timeless.
What truly elevates this book above the standard travelogue is Pugh’s profound engagement with history and politics. As he rides on, he explores the vanished lives of the Poles and the Jews, navigating the complex, layered legacy of the region with sensitivity and insight. Despite dark warnings about Ukraine, he finds a welcoming people, fiercely proud to defend their beautiful country, and the final leg of his journey through Romania allows him to ponder the intricate legacy of Austria-Hungary. Critics have been right to praise this work; as Catherine Belton notes, it is an ‘incredible journey into a forgotten world of wonder’ that captures the exact moment this kaleidoscope region began to warp. It is a stirring, funny, and ultimately heartbreaking read—a testament to human kindness, the spirit of adventure, and a world we can no longer visit, making it an indispensable and poignant historical document. This unforgettable travel memoir can be acquired here.